What are the important characteristics of
nylon and polyester fibers & fabrics?
- What is a denier?
- What is decitex (dtex)?
- What is a microfiber?
- What are the primary advantages of microfibers?
- What is the importance of a high density woven fabric?
- What is lamination?
- What is coating?
- What about microporous and non-porous coating or lamination for fabrics?
- Which is more durable, fabrics with coating or lamination?
Understanding the Function of Fabrics
- What is the difference between waterproof and water repellent?
- Will a fabric be waterproof even after the water repellent finish has partially worn off?
- How do you measure; a) waterproofness b) water repellency?
- Is water repellency related to moisture permeability?
- What is "dew condensation"? How is it related to "water repellency"?
- What are the pros and cons of non-coated vs. coated fabrics?
- What are the three layers of lamination or coating?
- What is delamination and how does it happen?
- What is the difference between ENTRANT*V and PTFE membrane?
- What is wicking?
- Why is wicking important to the wearer of the garment?
- What is "rip stop"? And, why is it important?
The General Care of Fabrics
- Does ordinary washing usually effect the protective function of the activewear fabric?
- How can water penetrate into the inside of a waterproof/water repellent breathable garment?
What are the important characteristics of
nylon and polyester fibers & fabrics?
Nylon 1.14 specific gravity
Nylon 6 = softening point of 180deg C,
melting point 215deg C -220deg C.
Nylon 66 = softening point of 230deg C -235deg C
melting point 250deg C -260deg C.
Nylon 6 = softening point of 180deg C,
melting point 215deg C -220deg C.
Nylon 66 = softening point of 230deg C -235deg C
melting point 250deg C -260deg C.
Nylon fiber characteristics include light weight, high strength and softness with good durability. Even when wet, nylon's overall strength may decrease only about 15%. And, that is minimal compared to most other natural and synthetic fibers. Nylon also dries very quickly when wet. Its proven ability to withstand abrasion is more than 20X greater than wool and more than 10X greater than silk or cotton. The versatility of nylon in activewear, athletic equipment and outdoor garments has been established.
Colors dye rich and vibrant with a superior color fastness that manufacturers and consumers can count on. And, nylon is a good fabric choice when combined with polyurethane coatings. Strong acids or phenol may adversely affect nylon's structural properties. Yet, generally nylon has excellent resistance to dirt, alkalis, decay, mold and most common organic solvents. Nylon is able to withstand moderately high temperatures without a significant loss of strength. Yet, prolonged exposure to sun light (UV) may turn nylon yellow. And when subjected to elevated temperatures, nylon may suffer a reduced loss in strength.
Polyester 1.38 specific gravity
softening point of 238deg C -240deg C,
melting point 255deg C -260deg C.
softening point of 238deg C -240deg C,
melting point 255deg C -260deg C.
Polyester fibers have outstanding dimensional stability and offer excellent resistance to dirt, alkalis, decay, mold and most common organic solvents. Being durable, yet lightweight, polyester has elasticity and a comfortable smooth feel or "soft hand." These are all important qualities to consumers for a wide variety of outerwear and recreational applications. Excellent heat resistance or thermal stability is also an attribute of polyester. Basically, polyester is wrinkle free and impervious to water and moisture. No change or stretchability occurs--when polyester becomes wet, yet, polyester fabric may suffer from color migration if coated or laminated.
Recycling Flow of Products made completely from Nylon 6 Apparel made completely from Nylon 6 fiber and resin--from the outer fashion fabric to lining, buttons, and fasteners--can now be reduced through depolymerization to the raw material lactam. The raw material can then be resynthesized to create new nylon 6 polymer--a perfect example of chemical recycling.
Denier is the unit of weight, most commonly used in the US, which measures the thickness of a filament yarn. Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn. As the number gets larger, the yarn becomes thicker, as the number gets smaller, the yarn becomes finer.
It is the weight in grams of 10,000 meters of yarn. Decitex is primarily used in European and Asian countries for measuring filament yarn.
Generally speaking, if a unit of filament yarn is below 1 denier it is called a microfiber. For example, if a 70 denier yarn has 98 filaments, this would be a microfiber. On the other hand, if a 70 denier yarn has 68 filaments you cannot call it a microfiber.
The most important advantage is the comfortable feeling or the "soft hand" to the consumer. Also, it is possible today to manufacture high-performance water resistant fabrics by weaving microfibers into a high density structure.
Note: with a special DWR treatment applied to the tight woven microfiber fabric,superior water repellency is available.
Note: with a special DWR treatment applied to the tight woven microfiber fabric,superior water repellency is available.
The main purpose is for water/wind proofing and to still allow the fabric breathability since it is uncoated.
In the process of lamination, membrane is bonded to the fabric with adhesive by applying pressure and heat.
Coating consists of spreading a layer of polyurethane resin directly onto the fabric.
Basically there are two mechanisms to make coated or laminated fabrics waterproof and moisture permeable. Microporous coating or lamination has very small pores that are bigger than vapor and still much smaller than a raindrop (the drop's diameter is larger than 3.0 micrometers = 3.0 micrometer(see Note)). This means that the perspiration vapor (the vapor's diameter is approximately 0.0004 micrometer) from your skin can pass through the fabric and yet rain cannot penetrate into the garment.
Toray's ENTRANT*GII and ENTRANT*V are microporous coatings (the diameter of the microporous coating ranges from 0.1 to 1.0 micrometer).
Waterproof and moisture permeable fabrics can also be created using a nonporous coating or lamination. Toray's ENTRANT*DERMIZAX* is a nonporous lamination. A nonporous coating or lamination utilizes the polymer's molecular movement (micro Brownian movement) to efficiently absorb perspiration vapor and disperse it throughout the fabric.
Note: 1 micrometer = 1/1,000 millimeter
Note: 1 micrometer = 1/1,000 millimeter
It is difficult to say. The difference is that coatings come off gradually while delamination happens more rapidly, once the fabric begins to delaminate.
Understanding the function of Fabrics
Simply, water repellent indicates that water beads on the fabric. Waterproof is the degree of water pressure that can be applied to a fabric, yet still keeps the water on the outside of the fabric.
Over time water repellent finishes tend to wear off. Yet, if the fabric is fully coated and seam taped securely you can expect the garment to be waterproof for an extended period of time. Occasionally, you may feel a slight coldness because the outer shell of the fabric becomes "wet" which is caused by a decrease in the water repellency of the garment. However, it is important to note that this does not mean that the fabric is leaking.
a) Waterproofness
Waterproofness can be measured by four (4) different methods:
Each method uses different equipment but the function of the machine is the same, in that it applies pressure by water to the fabric to indicate at what point the fabric will begin to leak.
b) Water Repellency
Usually water repellency is tested by a simple test called the "shower test" (JISL-1092). An actual "shower" of water on the fabric is used to determine what the fabric looks like. After the "shower" the drops that are close to a perfect sphere indicate the higher grade of water repellency. The formula is written; "LO-100pts/L20-80pts" which means "the water drops initially make perfect spheres on the fabric, and after 20 wash cycles still make 80 points of the original perfect spheres." However this level "after 20 washes 80% of the finish is retained" is the established Toray standard for a "durable water repellent finish."
Waterproofness can be measured by four (4) different methods:
- Low Hydraulic Pressure Test (JISL-1092):
It is used to measure from 1,500millimeter-2,000millimeter.
The unit is "millimeterH2O". - High Hydraulic Pressure Test (JISL-1092):
It is used to measure over 2,000millimeter. The unit is
"kg/cm2" (kilograms per square centimeter)
(approximately 1kg/cm2=10,000millimeterH2O). - Mullen Burst Test (ASTM-D751):
This is achieved by using the same machine that measures the "bursting strength of fabric" and it is measured in "PSI" (Pounds per Square Inch). - ISO Pressure Test JISL-1092, ISO 92 and ISO 811- standard ISO test
Each method uses different equipment but the function of the machine is the same, in that it applies pressure by water to the fabric to indicate at what point the fabric will begin to leak.
b) Water Repellency
Usually water repellency is tested by a simple test called the "shower test" (JISL-1092). An actual "shower" of water on the fabric is used to determine what the fabric looks like. After the "shower" the drops that are close to a perfect sphere indicate the higher grade of water repellency. The formula is written; "LO-100pts/L20-80pts" which means "the water drops initially make perfect spheres on the fabric, and after 20 wash cycles still make 80 points of the original perfect spheres." However this level "after 20 washes 80% of the finish is retained" is the established Toray standard for a "durable water repellent finish."
Yes, water repellency is closely related to moisture permeability. If water repellency is poor, water will layer on the fabric surface, which eventually prevents moisture vapor from the inside being released to the outside of the garment.
When the humidity level between the fabric and the wearer rises to 100%, the vapor condenses and changes into drops of water. This condition of drops of water sticking to the inside of the garment is called "dew condensation." Also, when cold air touches the surface of a garment and the temperature of the garment suddenly changes, the difference between the temperature inside and the temperature outside of the garment relates to the dew condensation level. If a fabric does not have a dew condensation control system to inhibit the difference in temperature inside versus that outside of the garment, the dew condensation will occupy the micropores and prevent the garment from being comfortable to the wearer during temperature changes.
Non-Coated
Pros: good hand feel/weight/breathability
Cons: limited water resistance (=maximum 1,500-2,000millimeterH2O and not durable in continuous rain.)
Bottom line: suitable for light water applications or casual wear.
WP/MP Coated
Pros: waterproofness (=possible to achieve 20,000millimeterH2O)
Cons: in general, compared to non-coated fabrics, limited moisture permeability, heavier in weight, and a stiffer hand feel. Bottom line: Suitable for real rainwear or heavy-duty clothing.
Pros: good hand feel/weight/breathability
Cons: limited water resistance (=maximum 1,500-2,000millimeterH2O and not durable in continuous rain.)
Bottom line: suitable for light water applications or casual wear.
WP/MP Coated
Pros: waterproofness (=possible to achieve 20,000millimeterH2O)
Cons: in general, compared to non-coated fabrics, limited moisture permeability, heavier in weight, and a stiffer hand feel. Bottom line: Suitable for real rainwear or heavy-duty clothing.
Three layers of lamination or coating consist of fabric, membrane and tricot backing. They are necessary, in order to improve the durability of the fabric. Tricot is applied to the membrane and not directly to the fabric. These three layers do not require an additional lining. This is ideal for non-bulky, lightweight thin performance garments that are mostly preferred for activewear.
Delamination is when the membrane separates from the fabric. If abrasion occurs directly to the membrane delamination may occur.
PTFE membrane has micropores and is laminated to the fabric.
ENTRANT*V is a polyurethane microporous coating.
ENTRANT*V is a specially engineered fabric coating with extra high strength and durability. In the manufacturing process--from the fibers, to the weaving, and the dying, to the DWR coating process--ENTRANT*V is total quality controlled. The company's advanced vertical manufacturing process ensures the consumer optimal performance and comfort in the ENTRANT*V line of activewear.
Also, Toray's ENTRANT*DERMIZAX* which has a polyurethane non-porous lamination with an over 200% stretchable membrane and a soft hand offers excellent flexibility. It is applicable for a multitude of stretchy shell type activewear applications.
ENTRANT*V is a polyurethane microporous coating.
ENTRANT*V is a specially engineered fabric coating with extra high strength and durability. In the manufacturing process--from the fibers, to the weaving, and the dying, to the DWR coating process--ENTRANT*V is total quality controlled. The company's advanced vertical manufacturing process ensures the consumer optimal performance and comfort in the ENTRANT*V line of activewear.
Also, Toray's ENTRANT*DERMIZAX* which has a polyurethane non-porous lamination with an over 200% stretchable membrane and a soft hand offers excellent flexibility. It is applicable for a multitude of stretchy shell type activewear applications.
Wicking is an efficiently designed system for dispersing perspiration throughout the fabric which results in rapid evaporation of perspiration and body vapor.
Basically there are 3 approaches to creating the wicking function.
(1) By fabric structure (ex. FIELDSENSOR*)
(2) By yarn structure (most sport knits in the market are this type.)
(3) By chemical reaction (ex. STUNNER*QD)
Among these three different mechanisms, in the fabric structure, number one, FIELDSENSOR* works best. The unique FIELDSENSOR* three dimensional (3-D) wicking mechanism is similar to the capillary action found in the earth's natural plant life. Additionally an important benefit of FIELDSENSOR* activewear is that repeated washings normally have no negative affect on the fabric's function.
Basically there are 3 approaches to creating the wicking function.
(1) By fabric structure (ex. FIELDSENSOR*)
(2) By yarn structure (most sport knits in the market are this type.)
(3) By chemical reaction (ex. STUNNER*QD)
Among these three different mechanisms, in the fabric structure, number one, FIELDSENSOR* works best. The unique FIELDSENSOR* three dimensional (3-D) wicking mechanism is similar to the capillary action found in the earth's natural plant life. Additionally an important benefit of FIELDSENSOR* activewear is that repeated washings normally have no negative affect on the fabric's function.
Because of the wicking activity, the garment stays dry and comfortable to the wearer.
Basically rip stop is a name of fabric with a characteristic diagonal over-weave. It is specially designed to prevent rips or tears from continuing further. Toray offers a wide range of rip stop fabrics from lightweight to heavyweight in various contemporary designs.
The General Care of Fabrics
Dirt, dust, oils and harsh detergents can all decrease the protective function of a garment. All these agents are humidity-friendly and therefore they may impair the garment's water repellency and waterproofness. That is why manufacturers often recommend regular washings to help maintain the fabric's protective functions. If a garment is washed according to the care instructions, there should be no serious damage to the waterproof/breathable fabrics for the first 50 washings. Washing the garment frequently may help to ensure that the garment lasts longer and wears and performs better. In addition, products such as "Scotch Guard"(see Note)
are recommended for extended water repellency. Machine washing a garment is preferable to dry cleaning, for the garment as well as the environment. A garment's color, especially if it is polyester, may blur if dry cleaned. Make sure that any activesport garment that is washed has been thoroughly rinsed of all detergents. Dry in the shade. After drying, it is best to iron with low heat (approx. 140deg C or 284deg F), so that some degree of water repellency can be recovered.
After washing and drying, you should keep your garment away from high temperatures, humidity and direct sunlight (UV rays). Also, it is always best to store garments at room temperature. If the coating or lamination of your garment is made from polyurethane, it will naturally lose some of its effectiveness over time. The chemical breakdown begins gradually.
If a garment is laminated, it is important to take extra care to prevent delamination from abrasion or undue stress to the fabric.
Note: Scotch Guard is a registered trademark of 3M
After washing and drying, you should keep your garment away from high temperatures, humidity and direct sunlight (UV rays). Also, it is always best to store garments at room temperature. If the coating or lamination of your garment is made from polyurethane, it will naturally lose some of its effectiveness over time. The chemical breakdown begins gradually.
If a garment is laminated, it is important to take extra care to prevent delamination from abrasion or undue stress to the fabric.
Note: Scotch Guard is a registered trademark of 3M
In general, waterproof/water repellent/breathable garments have stitching that is sealed with seam sealing tape on the inside so that penetration does not occur.
Therefore, if there is "water penetration" it can mean that water is seeping through the stitching and not necessarily through the fabric. This can occur if seam sealing tape has been damaged or even unknowingly altered in any way.
